FRANCE - 3

 

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Centre

Loche  Bueil-en-Touraine  Cléry-Saint-André   St-Paterne-Racan Tours

Loche
Logis Royal - or - Chateau

The Logis Royal or Château (not the nearby Donjon) houses the tomb and beautiful effigy of Agnes Sorel, mistress of Charles Vll (Joan of Arc's Dauphin); she died aged twenty-eight and was originally buried on the nearby Collegiate Church of St Ours. The effigy has only been in its present place since 1970; note the contemporary portrait of Agnes with one bare beast on the wall behind the tomb and her feet resting on two lambs, punning her Christian name. For details of Agnes's recently examined skeleton click
here.


Bueil - en - Touraine

Parish Church of St-Pierre-aux-Liens/
Collegiate Church of St-Michel-et-Sts-Innocents

Churches open normal hours: one connects to the other. Park in village.

Martine Turpin, 2nd Wife of Jean V de Bueil. This effigy was originally in the now destroyed chapel of the nearby château of Plessis-Barte and moved here in 1850.

Jeanne de Montejean (1459), 1st Wife of Jean V de Bueil. (ref:: 303/XVIII;p.122;pl.56)

Marguerite de la Chausade (1443) & Pierre de Bueil (1414) These effigies were originally side by side on a tomb che

The parish church is linked via a door (seen in first photograph on the right) to the collegiate church, which was built to contain the tombs of the lords of Bueil. Unfortunately this latter church was undergoing restoration when I visited , which can be seen from the scaffolding in the photograph on the left. The four effigies lie in niches in the wall, three of which can be seen in the second photograph on the right. These niches were blocked by thick plastic sheetings to protect them from the prodigious amount of dust so I was unable to photograph the effigies adequately; however I was able to lift the sheeting to photograph the heads only. I will revisit the church in the future.

Cléry-Saint-André -

Collegiate Church of Our Lady
Church open during normal hours. Park in the free car park next to the church.

King Louis XI 'The Universal Spider' (1483) Louis was one of the very few kings of France who wished to be buried elsewhere than St Denis.

A drawing from 1481 is still extant of the projected effigy and which shows the King kneeling but wearing armour and with shoulder length hair; this was perhaps based on an earlier design of 1472 by Jean Fouchet. This drawing probably differs from the final monuments constructed by Conrad of Cologne, goldsmith of Tours and Laurent Wrine, cannon maker, in gilt bronze and enamelled brass. This was melted down by the Hugenots in 1562.
The present effigy, sculptured in 1622 is the work of Michel Bourdin of Orleans, painter and architect of Paris, who constructed the monuments according to a design drawn by him in 1617.
This was destroyed in 1792 but the remains were collected by Alexandre Lenoir (who has been referred to in the section on St Denis) for display in his museum and reconstructed by the sculptor Besuvallet and the marbler Scellier. In 1818 the Prefect of the Loiret transferred the monument back to Cléry and a base was constructed by the architect Pagot and the sculptor Romagnesi. A drawing by an English visitor of this base - more in keeping than the present one - still exists.
During the restoration of the church in 1868 the tomb was again dismantled and in 1874 the effigy repositioned on a simple slab at ground level. It was replaced in 1896 on the present incongruous base which was constructed by the sculptor Libersac and the marbler Barberon.

The King and his Queen, Charlotte of Savoy, are buried in a vault which can be entered via a floor grill at the side of the monument; there their skulls may be seen displayed. Watch this space!

Above: The heart of Louis's son Charles VIII (1498) was also buried at Cléry; above left  is a stone mounted on the wall, which reproduces the inscription on the casket which contains the heart and, right, the stone above the actual burial vault. His monument at St Denis was destroyed at the Revolution.
Below: Left stone with simple cross and inscription, now mounted on wall.
Right: Stone on floor marking the burial of  the Breton Tanneguy du Chastel (1477 ) He was killed by cannon fire while leaning on the King's shoulder at the seige of Bouchain; he was buried here on Louis's request.

St-Paterne-Racan

Abbaye de la Clarté Dieu

A tourist information board in Buile-en-Touraine promised that there was a very fine military effigy here. A notice on one of the entrance gate posts stated 'Private Property' and one on the other was the telephone number to arrange visits but this no longer functioned. However we received a very warm welcome from the owners. There is very little remaining above ground of the actual church but much of some of the conventual buildings remain and some of these are used for exhibitions. The promised military effigy is now permanently on display in the Cloisters Museum, New York. However we were shown the incised slab (above) which is unfortunately fractured and defaced. The feet of a military effigy can just be made out and there are remains of an inscription

Tours
Excellent train service from Paris
The Cathedral

Above: Children of Charles VIII & Anne of Brittany. Note the baby and young child. Carrera marble by Jérôme de Fiésole. Italian style but the effigies are in the Medieval tradition of Michel Colombe. The monument was in the Basilica of St Martin from 1506 and moved to the Cathedral in 1834.
Right: Michel-Jean Amelot (1724) Diplomat; Conseillier d'Etat to Louis IV. He was the nephew of Archbishop Michel Amelot de Gournay

A Series of Monuments to the Atchbishops of Tours of the 19th and 20th Centuries

Felix Pierre Fruchard (1874)

Charles-Théodore Colet (1883)

René François Renou (1913) 

Far left: Jean-Baptiste du Chilleau (1824) Near left: Augustin Louis de Montblanc (1841) 

Albert Negre (1931)

Ludovic Gaillard (1956)

Louis Ferrand (1980)

Michel Moutel (1998)

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Basilica of St Martin

There have been several churches on this site over the grave of St Martin. Only towers of the medieval church now remain, other parts of the building having been demolished in the Revolution and later. A new Neo-Bazantine basilica was erected over the grave of St Martin 1888-1924 by Guillaune René Meigan, Archbishop of Tours, whose monument in the crypt is showen above. Above left is the structure built over St Martin's grave, also in the crypt.


Pays de la Loire

  Angers  Candes-St-Martin   L'Epau Abbey  Fontevraud l'Abbaye  Le Mans  Nantes

Fontevraud l'Abbaye
The Abbey
Free parking nearby in the town. Entrance fee, season ticket available. Website

This  is a magnificent place to visit; the largest monastic complex in western Europe. There are actually three chuches on this site but they are no longer consecrated. The church shown here is l'Abbatiale.  There is no parking at the Abbey apart for those staying at the Prieure de St Lazaire.
The church houses the stone effigies of the English Kings, Henry II, his son, Richard the Lionheart, Henry's Queen, Eleanor of Aquitaine and the wooden effigy of King John's Queen, Isabella of Angoulême. Why were they buried here? They were not only kings of England but rulers of an extensive area of what is now France: Dukes of Normandy, of Aquitaine, Counts of Anjou, Touraine and Maine and overlords of Brittany, often called the 'Angevin Empire', although this was not a contemporary term nor was it an empire and would not have been recognised by those concerned. The kings died in France and the queens died in retirement in the Abbey.

The church has been extensively excavated but no trace of coffins or remains have been found. However the effigies, which have moved around over the years, are now thought to rest where the burials took place, at the eastermost part of the nave. Henry and Eleanor's daughter, Joan, died in childbirth in the Abbey but no monument has been found. Her son, Raymond VII of Toulouse, was also buried in the Abbey and an effigy thought to be his was excavated several years ago; however this is not yet on display in the Abbey. A wall painting, nearly complete, said to be that of Raymond, remains on a pillar of the crossing. Several other sculptures have also been excavated but whether these represent funerary monuments is not known. On display in the visitors' centre is the effigial head only (the rest of the monument having been lost) of the founder of the Abbey, Robert d'Arbrissel, but this is not contemporary.
The complex is no longer a working abbey nor the prison into which it was converted by Napoleon: it is run by the French state as a cultural centre and may be visited. You can stay in the Abbey complex at the former Priory of St Lazarus, which has been converted into an excellent hotel.
 The photographs flanking the title show 1. The west end and entrance to the Abbey Church, 2. The east end of the Abbey Church, 3. The interior of the church looking east where the effigies can be just seen in the centre, and 4. The main cloister.
The portraits of the effigies show on the left, Henry and Eleanor and on the right Richard and Isabella. Below on the left are Henry and Eleanor and on the right Richard and Isabella.
The hand coloured etchings by Stothard of these effigies before their restorationare are shown below the photographs.
Also visit the Parish Church and the Lantern of the Dead

L'Epau Abbey
Park in the free Abbey  car park. Entrance fee.
Website

East of Le Mans, this was the foundation and burial place of Berengaria, Queen of Richard the Lionheart. Her effigy has now been returned to the chapter house (on the right of the photograph)  and is placed over the vault where her body had remained since its burial. Please note that they are not, as still given in some guide books, in Le Mans Cathedral where they were situated for safe keeping for many years. Fragments of the original tomb chest are displayed nearby; the illustration that appears in Stothard is a later construction and the bones referred to were not those of the Queen. 
The Abbey has now been restored and acts as a cultural centre - rather like Fontevraud but much smaller.

How To Find It from the Channel Ports: Do not enter Le Mans but by pass the city north on the A11-E50; leave this road east of Le Mans on the A28, travelling south.. Leave the A28 on the N23 - the first (and only?) exit and pass through the toll gate. Ahead is a roundabout but L'Epau is not marked on the entry sign post. Take the last exit - N23R - to Changé (L'Epau is now marked telling you to "follow Le Mans"); leave Changé on the D152 to Le Mans; L'Epau is the on the right. Good luck! Do not put Changé into SatNav as there are more than one!

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Candes-St-Martin
Free car park in the village

St Martin - a Roman soldier who converted to Christianity - founded a church here and later became Bishop of Tours; he died here in 397 and was buried in his cathedral. The present church is 12th -15th century. There are two modern effigies of St Martin - one rests on a tomb chest, showing him in his pontifical robes and the other as a monk, below the altar. Both are in St Martin's chapel atthe NE end of the church

Le Mans
The Museum

The coloured etching - by Charles A Stothard - is of the enamel plaque which formerly covered the tomb in Le Mans Cathedral of Geoffery Plantagenet, Count of Anjou,  and father of Henry ll of England. The plaque is now in the museum of that city.

I will expand this section in due course
Angers
The Cathedral

 
I will expand this section in due course  
Nantes
 

 Details from the monument of Francois, Duke of Brittany (1400)

I will expand this section in due course
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Picardy  

Beauvais Cathedral
World War 1 War Memorial


 

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