LONDON

 


 

      
 

       
             

          

The Temple Church

(Temple: Dictrict & Circle Lines)
(No admission fee; photography allowed)
'London's Friendliest Church'

The Temple Church belongs to two of the four Inns of Court, the Inner Temple and Middle Temple; it is thus the lawyers' private chapel. It is extra diocesan, has no parish and is not subject to the authority of the Bishop of London. The Temple takes its name from the crusading Order of Knights Templars founded in 1118 to protect pilgrims travelling to the Holy Land. Their names comes from their headquarters being near the site of the Temple in Jerusalem. Henry I introduced them to England and they first settled in Holborn near the top of Chancery Lane. In the 12th century they built their great house of the New Temple on the banks of the Thames. The Round Church was built on the model of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. The Order was accused of heresy and other offences and dissolved in 1312 at the instigation of Phillipe Le Bel of France and the Grand Master - Jacques Molay - burned at the stake. In England the Templars' property passed to their rival order, the Knights Hospitallers who, in turn, were suppressed at the Reformation. Thus the Temple eventually passed to the Crown, subject to the tenancies of the lawyers who had settled there as tenants of the Hospitallers and formed themselves into two societies, The Benchers of the Inner Temple and the Middle Temple, who secured the freehold by charter from James l in 1608. One of the conditions of the grant was that they were to maintain the Temple Church and its services for ever. The Minister of the Temple Church is still called the "Master of the Temple".

In the Round are the nine
military effigies (shown) which probably do not represent Knights Templars but rather their illustrious supporters. The southern group (on your left) includes the effigy of William Marshal, Earl of Pembroke, who was Regent during the minority of Henry III, (ob 1219),and his sons William and Gilbert as well as that of Robert de Ros, which was brought from Yorkshire. In the southern group (on your right) is the effigy of Geoffrey de Mandeville, Earl of Essex (ob 1144) and a 13th century coped Purbeck marble coffin lid. These monuments were restored by Edward Richardson in the early 1840's, whose efforts were much criticised of his drawings of the effigies appear on this page. On the night of 10th May 1941 London was subjected to a Luftwaffe bombing raid and the roof of the church fell onto the effigies; they had been protected in the anticipation of a raid by railway sleepers but this was a fire bomb so each effigy was subjected to its own inferno causing great damage. The effigies have been carefully repaired.

Other monuments:
Edmund Plowden (ob 1584), Treasurer of the Middle Temple. Alabaster effigy with richly decorated canopy.
Bishop Sylvester of Carlisle (ob 1255), Purbeck Marble and very well carved. (shown)
Edward Littleton (ob 1664), heraldic brass with 29 shields and a Latin inscription of a winding scroll  in front of choir stalls.
Richard Martin (ob 1615) Recorder of London. He kneels before his desk holding an open book. By William Cure ll.
John Selden (ob 1654) Middle Temple jurist, legal antiquary and scholar;  ledgerstone beneath a glass panel.
Sir John Williams (ob 1669)
George Wylde (ob 1679) signed by William Stanton
Sir John Witham (ob 1689) signed by Thomas Cartwright Snr
Lord Chancellor Thurloe (ob 1806) bust by Carlo Rossi
 Visit the Temple Church Site or these below for further information and photographs - or even better visit this most interesting and very friendly London Church itself:

http://www.thecyberfarm.com/templars/templarbritain/templechurch/templechurch.htm

 http://vrcoll.fa.pitt.edu/medart/image/England/london/Temple-Church/London-Temple-Church.html

   

 

 

     
 

     
          

                 

 


 

St Olave - Hart Street



(Tower Hill: District & Circle Lines)
 Lord Mayor Sir Richard Haddon (ob 1524) Brass with kneeling figures of two wives and five children.
Thomas Morley (ob 1566)
Brass - a palimpsest
Also several brasses of the 17th century

Sir William Ogborne (ob 1734)
Master Carpenter to Board of Ordnance. Cartouche.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sir John Radclif (ob 1568) this is a fragment of a recumbent effigy. 

 

 Lady Radclif (ob 1585) the kneeling figure only

Peter Cappone (ob 1582) A Florentine merchant. Kneeling figure in surround.

 Sir James Deane (ob 1608) A tripartite piece with kneeling figures of Sir James and his three wives.

 Andrew (ob 1610), Alderman, and Paul Bayning (ob 1616), Alderman and Sheriff. Kneeling figures surrounding  a corner. Attrib. to Christopher Kingsfield

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Mrs Elisabeth Pepys (ob 1669) - wife of the diarist. By John Bushnell

 

 Sir Andrew Riccard (ob 1672) in Roman dress; erected by Levant Company of which he was chairman. Attrib. to Bushnell

 Elizabeth Gore (ob 1698) -  one month short of her  19th birthday

 Jane Humberstone (ob 1694) the  monument was erected by her  husband Matthew (ob 1709) whose  name is added at the bottom

 Samuel Pepys (ob 1703 )- the diarist. By Blomfield (1884)

 


 

    Westminster Abbey

(Westminster: Circle & Dictrict Lines)
(There is a £10 Entrance Fee)
Westminster Abbey has an enormous amount of monuments and it will take a long time to list them. However I am making a start with the following illustrations and photographs.

 

 

The Sanctuary and Chapel of St Edward the Confessor    

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 


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Queen Eleanor of Castile (ob 1290) - first wife of Edward I. She died at Harby, Nottinghamshire and Edward raised the 'Eleanor Crosses' at the points where the funeral procession rested on its journey to Westminster. Three monuments were raised over Eleanor's remains: as above at Westminster; at Lincoln (containing her entrails), of which only the tomb chest remains; and at Blackfriars, London (containing her heart) which was totally destroyed at the Dissolution.
Master William Torel of London cast the beautiful gilt-bronze effigy. Her right hand once held a sceptre. The pillows and the top of the tomb are covered with the castles of Castile and the lions of Leon. The metalwork was finished by William Sprot and John de Ware. Around the top is a Norman-French inscription which, on translation, reads:
Here lies Eleanor, sometime Queen of England, wife to King Edward, son to King Henry, and daughter of  the King of Spain and Countess of Ponthieu, on whose soul may God in His pity have mercy. Amen.
The woodwork was carried out by Master Thomas de Hokyntone. However the canopy, which was painted by Master Walter of Durham, has been replaced.
On the ambulatory side (not shown) is a iron grille by
Master Thomas of Leighton Buzzard.
The Purbeck marble tomb chest is by
Master Richard of Crundale. The shields hung on branches of trees bear the arms of England, Castile quartering Leon and Ponthieu.
Below the chest, and visible from the ambulatory, is a painting (perhaps by Master Walter of Durham) of Sir Otes de Grandison (who rescued Edward in the Holy Land and who died in 1328) kneeling before the Virgin and Child and four pilgrims praying before the Holy Sepulchre

 

Queen Philippa of Hainhault (ob 1369) wife of Edward III. The tomb is of marble by Hennequin de Liege. Most of the weepers have been lost. The effigy is of alabaster - almost certainly a portrait. (compare the idealized effigy of Eleanor) Again the scepter, which has been held in the right hand has been lost. The columns at the side of the effigy formerly contained small figures tomb is covered by a wooden canopy. An iron grille, from St Paul's Cathedral, formerly protected the tomb. There were originally seventy figures made by John Orchard of London, bronze worker who also erected and repaired the grille.

 

 

King Edward III (ob 1377) The tomb is of Purbeck marble around which are niches which originally contained bronze effigies of Edward and Philippa's children but only six of these (on the south side) remain: Edward the Black Prince; Joan of the Tower; Lionel, Duke of Clarence; Lionel, Duke of York; Mary of Brittany; and William of Hatfield. (see below) Their arms were on enamelled shields at their feet but only four remain. On the base on the ambulatory side (as shown) are enamelled shields with the arms of England and St George.
The effigy, around which runs a Latin rhyming inscription,  is of gilt-bronze; the face is thought to be based on a death mask but the hair and beard are idealised.
The wooden canopy over the tomb may be by
Master Hugh Herland.

 


 

 

 

    

 

 

 

King Richard II (ob 1400) & Anne of Bohemia
(ob 1394)
, Richard's first wife

 

Richard was deposed in 1399 by his cousin, Henry Bolinbroke, Duke of Lancaster, and imprisoned in Pontefract Castle, where he was probably murdered. Henry became king as Henry IV. Richard's body was taken to St Paul's, where it was displayed publicly for three days to show that the former king was indeed dead. He was then buried at King's Lange in Herefordshire. In 1413 Henry V, in order to make amends for his father's deposition of Richard, ordered Richard's body to be translated to Westminster where he was buried in the tomb that he had had constructed for himself and his queen, Anne, who had died earlier. Anne had died in the Palace of Sheen and Richard had been so overcome with grief at her death that he had the building torn down.
The tomb is similar to that of Edward III. It is by masons
Henry Yelele and Stephen Lote and by coppersmiths Nicholas Broker and Godfrey Prest, all of London. The effigies are of gilt bronze and are almost certainly portraits: compare the portrait of a younger Richard which can be seen in the Nave. The King and Queen originally held hands. Richard wears his coronation robes. The effigies are incised all over with various badges: on Richard's cape is the Plantagenet plant; also can be seen the white hart, the sunburst, the two-headed imperial eagle and the lion of Bohemia. The top of the tomb is decorated with fleurs-de-lys, lions and eagles.
There used to be twelve gilt images of saints and eight angels as well as enamelled coats of arms around the tomb.
On the inside of the wooden canopy over the tomb are painted Christ in Majesty, the Coronation of the Virgin and Queen Anne's arms, the painter being
John Hardy. A rhyming inscription in Latin is painted around the edge of the canopy.

 

 


King Edward the Confessor (ob 1066)

 

King Henry III (ob 1272)

He was the son of King John (see Worcestershire page) whom he succeeded as a boy in 1216; he was first crowned at Gloucester, and four years later at
Westminster Abbey itself. Henry was responsible for
rebuilding the Abbey and almost all of the building west of
Henry VIII chapel belongs to this reign. He built a shrine to
Edward the Confessor to which the king's body was translated in 1269.
Henry was originally buried before the high altar in a grave which had been that of Edward the Confessor but nineteen years later translated to the present tomb which was built
by his son, Edward I. He heart was buried at Fontevraud but there is no monument there.
The King's tomb consists of a Purbeck Marble base of two stages, into the sides of which are set slabs of Italian porphyry
; it was inlaid with mosaic gilded and brightly coloured with tesserae of red and green porphyry, marble and glass, much of which have been stolen. On the side of the tomb
nearest the Confessor's shrine are arched recesses which may have contained relics of the saint.
The effigy is of gilded cast bronze and was made by
Master William Torel, who also made that of Queen Eleanor. The face would seem to be an idealized likeness of the King.
His head lies on a double cushion on which are decorated, as is the top of the tomb,  with lions of England. The gablet is now missing. An iron grille - by
Master Henry of Lewes
- once protected the tomb and the wooden canopy was once gilded and painted.
The original Norman-French inscription around the edge of the tomb remains and in translation reads: 'Here lies Henry, sometime King of England, Lord of Ireland and Duke of
Aquitaine, the son of King John, sometime King of England: on whom God may have mercy. Amen.'

 

 

 

 Edward vowed that he would build a new church should he ever return as England's king following his exile in Normandy; hence he rebuilt the Saxon church at Westminster with a new church in the Norman style. This was consecrated in December 1065; Edward died the following January and was buried before the high altar. Following miracles, William the Conqueror raised a stone gilded and jewelled tomb over the grave. After Edward's canonization, a shrine  was prepared by Henry II to which the earlier King's remains were translated in 1163. The Abbey was rebuilt by King Henry III and Edward's body moved to a newly prepared shrine in 1269, the lower part of which can be seen today. This is of Purbeck marble decorated with mosaic, the chief artist being Peter the Roman.  Above this base was the golden shrine containing the King's coffin.  In the lower part of the shrine are the recesses in which sick persons knelt. At the dissolution the shrine was despoiled of its relicts, gold and jewels and Edward's coffin buried elsewhere. Under Queen Mary the coffin was replaced and the shrine rebuilt although it was again later despoiled of its wealthy trappings.
In the old church Queen Edith (ob 1075) , Edward's wife, was buried near her husband's tomb. There are no records of her coffin being moved. Also in this area was buried his great grand niece Maud (or Edith) daughter of Malcolm Canmore, King of Scotland. Also the heart of Henry of Almayne, son of Richard, Earl of Cornwall, who was murdered by his cousin Guy de Montford.
For recent investigation of this area of the Abbey and recently discovered graves click here.

Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke (ob 1324)

He was son of William de Valance (q.v.) and hence cousin to Edward II, to whom he remained loyal in their war with their cousin Thomas of Lancaster (son of Edmund Crouchback) and was present when Lancaster was judged guilty of treason after the battle of Boroughbridge. He held estates both in England and in France where he died.
The weepers around the tomb chest remain and the Earl's effigy is represented in the armour of the period. His surcoat is with the Lusignan arms.
Above is a fine canopy on which the Earl is represented fully armed and on horseback.
 

 

 

John de Valance (ob 1277)

was young son of William de Valance. Cross slab with remains of brass inlaid and applied Cosmatic work. The slab to his sister Margaret (ob 1276) is nearby. 
 

 

John de Watham, Bp of Salisbury (ob 1395)

He was buried with the kings by order of Richard II. Any objection was overcome by the gift to the Abbey of two fine copes and a large sum of money from the King and the Bishop's executors. 

Chapel of St Edmund

Chapel of St Benedict


William de Valance (ob 1296)


Eleanor, Duchess of Gloucester (ob 1399)

 


John of Eltham, Earl of Cornwall (ob 1336)

John of Eltham was the 2nd son of Edward II and was three times regent when Edward III was absent. Alabaster effigy, probably by the same artist who made Edward II's effigy. Note the weepers around the tomb chest.  The canopy was broken in 1776 and unfortunately removed.
 
William de Valance was the son of Isabelle of Angoulême, King John's widow, and hence half brother to King Henry III. The tomb is the only English example of Limoges champlevé enamel work. The effigy and tomb chest are of oak and once were both covered by enamelled copper plates, mostly now lost from the chest although not on the effigy.       

Eleanor was wife of Edward III's youngest son, Thomas of Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester. Very fine brass on low altar tomb.

Archbishop de Waldeby was a friend of the Black Prince. Fine brass

 Sir Humphrey Bourchierwas killed at the Battle of Barnet fighting for Edward IV. The brass effigy is lost  but the helm and shields remain. On low tomb chest


Robert de Waldeby, Archbishop of York (ob 1397)

 

Sir Humphrey Bourchier (ob 1471)

South Ambulatory

This tomb lies between the Chapels of St Edmund and St Benedict, and contains the remains of Katherine (ob 1257) and four other children of Henry III. With these were afterwards laid four children of Edward I, perhaps Alfonso and John of Windsor. The tomb has lost much of its decoration, including an image of brass and one of silver.


Cardinal Simon de Langham (ob 1376)

Abbot of Westminster, later Chancellor of England and still later Archbishop of Canterbury. When he was made a cardinal he was obliged to resign as archbishop and join the Papal court. By Henry Yevele & Stephen Lote. Canopy destroyed at the coronation of George I but much of the brass inscription remains.       

Chapel of St
John the Baptist


Hugh (ob 1304) & Mary (ob 1305)  de Bohum

Children of Humphrey de Bohum, Earl of Hereford & Elizabeth, 4th Daughter of Edward I. Purbeck. Originally in St Nicholas's Chapel 

 

St Andrew's Chapel

 

Kemble, Rayleigh, Davy, Baillie

Some details:

John Philip Kemble (ob 1823) represented as Cato by J Flaxman and finished after the latter's death by J E Hinchliffe. The monument originally stood in the North Transept. Kemble was buried in Lausanne, Switzerland.
He was a celebrated actor and was born in Prescot, Lancashire (my home town), where Kemble Street, is named after him.  I remember a plaque on the house where he was born.
John William (Strutt) 3rd Baron Rayleigh OM PRS (ob 1919) He succeeded James Clerk Maxwell as Cavendish Professor of Experimental Physics at Cambridge and was Chancellor 1908-10. He was joint discoverer of the noble gas Argon for which he was rewarded the Nobel Prize. The bust relief is by Francis Derwent Wood.
Sir Humphrey Davy Bt FRS (ob 1829)
Tablet by Sir F Chantrey. A Cornishman, he invented the famous miners' lamp that was named after him and from which he refused to profit. He discovered the elements K, Na, B, Ca, Ba and Cd. He also discovered the anaesthetic effect of nitrous oxide - which is still used today. Teacher of Michael Faraday. Buried at Geneva.
Mathew Baillie MD (ob 1823) Physician and anatomist. Buried at Duntisbourne Abbey, Gloucestershire. Bust by Sir Francis Chantrey. 

 
 William Camden (ob 1623) Antiquary and author of Magna Brittania. He was buried in the South Transept.

 Charles John Canning, 1st Earl of Canning (ob 1862) 1st Viceroy of India. He was buried with his father, the Prime Minister, near by. By J H Foley.
Stratford Canning, 1st Viscount Canning (ob 1800)
Diplomat. By Sir J H Boejm. Verse  on the monument by Tennyson. Buried at Frant, Sussex.

Elixabeth Cecil Wife of Sir Robert Cecil, son of Lord Burghley. Alabaster tomb with black marble slab, erected by her husband.  

North Transept

 

Canning, Canning

 

South Transept:Poets' Corner

 

William Camden

Chapel of St Nicholas


Elizabeth Cecil

 



Stokes, Adams, Lister, Wallace, Darwin Joule,                               Thynne,
Hooker
Ramsay

 

North Choir Aisle


The recumbent effigy is of Lord John Thynne (ob 1881) Cleric. Third son of the 2nd Marquis of Bath. He was Canon of Westminster for 49 years and Sub-dean for 46. Buried at Haynes, Beds. By H H Armstead.
Above are three roundels, from left to right:
Sir George Gabriel Stokes, 1st Bt, PRS (ob 1903) Mathematician. Like Newton he was Lucasian Professor of Mathematics at Cambridge and MP Cambridge. (and, like Newton, never spoke in the house) Stoke's law is a simple equation in fluid mechanics. Bronze bust by Sir W H Thornycroft.
John Couch Adams FRS (ob 1892) Mathematician and Astronomer. He predicted the existence of the planet Neptune based on the movement of Uranus and Newton's Law of Gravitation. Marble bust by A Bruce Joy
Joseph Lister OM FRS 1st Baron Lister (ob 1912)
Surgeon. Pioneer of antiseptic treatment, reducing the appalling death rate from infection following surgery. Buried at Hamstead. White marble bust by Sir T Brock.
Alfred Russel Wallace OM FRS (ob 1913)
Naturalist. He formulated a theory of evolution by natural selection independently of Darwin. In 1858 he and Darwin publicly announced in a join paper to the Linnean Society. White marble bust by A Bruce Joy
Charles Robert Darwin FRS (ob 1882)
Naturalist. Famous as the author of Origin of Species and the theory of evolution by natural selection. Buried in north aisle of nave near Newton.  Bronze bust by Sir J E Boehm.
Below the Stokes plaque:

James Prescot Joule FRS (ob 1889)
Physicist. Famous for establishing the mechanical equivalent of heat. The SI unit of energy is named the Joule after him. Buried at Sale, Ches. White marble tablet.
Sir Joseph Dalton Hooker OM GCSI PRS (ob 1911)
Botanist. Friend of Darwin. Director of Kew Gardens 1865-85. Published the Flora of Antarctica, New Zealand and Tasmania. Buried at Kew. White marble bust by F Bowcher
Sir William Ramsay KCB FRS (ob 1911)
Chemist. He discovered with Lord Rayleigh Argon and alone isolated helium, neon, krypton and xenon - all 'noble' gases. Bronze bust by C L Hartwell

 


St Botolph - Aldersgate

(St Pauls: Central Line)


    
 

Three Cartouches from the church, left to right:-
Richard Chiswell (ob 1711) 'Citizen and Stationer of London' Also his parents - John and Margaret - his first wife Sarah, and his five children, who died young, whom he had with his second wife Mary; she is buried in 'Christ Church, London.' Attrib. to William Woodman Snr
Sir John Micklethwaite (ob 1682) Attrib. to Gibbons

Dame Anne Packington (ob 1563)

The three kneeling figures, shield and inscription are not 'brasses' but incised and painted tp look like a brass.


St Margaret Westminster

(Westminster: Circle & District Lines)
 

Mary Brocas (ob 1654)

Attrib to Joshua Marshall



Modern tablet in memory of General-at-Sea Robert Blake and the plaque outside the church to those ejected from the Cromwell Vault in Westminster Abbey at the Restoration

St Helen the Great

 (Liverpool Street: Circle, Hammersmith and City & Metropolitan Lines)



Agnes and John Crosby (ob 1476)

Purbeck marble tomb chest with alabaster effigies

 

 

           St Bartholomew the Great

(Barbican: Circle, Hammersmith and City & Metropolitan Lines)

 

Rahere (ob 1144)

Founder of the church. Made when the east end was modified in
c. 1405. Effigy, in Augustinian habit, of Reigate stone. Two bedesmen and angel holding shield at feet. Back wall is pierced to the ambulatory

Edward Cooke (ob 1652)

Attributed to Thomas Burman

Percival Smalpace (ob 1558 & Wife (ob 1588)

Below the busts is a slate panel incised with images of the couple's naked corpses. Attrib to Giles de Witt
 

John (ob 1681) & Margaret (ob 1680) Whiting


'lived lovingly in holy Wedlock in this Parish 40 years and upwards...'
 

 St Bartholomew the Less

(Barbican: Circle, Hammersmith and City
& Metropolitan Lines)

  

William Markeby (ob 1439) & Wife

 

St Mary Abbots, Kensington

(High Street Kensington:Circle and District Lines.
Notting Hill Gate: Circle, District and Central Lines)

 
Earl of Warwick (ob 1721)
By: Giovanni Battista Guelfi
 

 

St Paul's Cathedral

 

 

 

 

Richard Burges (ob 1797)
by Thomas Banks RA

Admiral Earl Howe (ob 1799)
By John Flaxman RA (1813)

Admiral Lord Collingwood (ob 1810)
By Richard Westmacott (1813)

Captain Granville Gower Loch RN (ob 1853)
Killed on the River Irrawaddy in Burman

Captain Robert Faulkener (ob 1795)
By John Charles Felix Rossi (c. 1805)

 

 

 

 

 

Lord Leighton (ob 1896)
Detail
By: Sir Thomas Brock KCB RA